FAQs

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FAQs

What Size Stove Do I Need?

To achieve a relaxing room temperature of around 21ºC when the external air temperature is at freezing (0ºC) you will need approximately 1kW of heat output for every 14 cubic meters of space.

Measure the length, width and height of your room and multiply the three figures together.

For example, a room measuring 7m long by 4m wide and with a height of 2.5m is 70 cu. m. of space. Divide by the sum by 14 and this means you will require a 5kW stove.

However this is just a rough guide, factors such as the number of outside walls, the size of windows and whether they are double glazed, the age of the home etc, can all influence the heat requirement.

I don’t have a chimney - can I still install a wood burning appliance?

Yes. You can install a wood burning stove in properties without a chimney. Stovax has designed a twin-wall flue pipe system which allows rooms without chimneys to enjoy the benefits of a wood burning stove. You can even select from a variety of twin wall components to suit both the internal and external aesthetics of your home.

Can a solid fuel appliance run my central heating?

Yes. Several Stove models have optional boilers which will allow you to produce domestic hot water for baths and showers as well as heating your room. By augmenting your existing heating system via ‘link up’ technology, a high output wood burning and multi-fuel boiler stove can help you become independent from the grid. The outstanding Stockton 14 is the largest in Stovax’s much revered Stockton stove range and has an impressive capability of heating up to 19 radiators.

How do I get the best efficiency from my fire?

ll modern appliances are designed to operate with the doors shut (except when refuelling), allowing their specific air supply paths to work correctly. Stoves are only efficient when burning hot, and this is achieved by using the right combination of air supply for the conditions. Primary air feeds in at the base and is useful to start a fire, but is then best closed down entirely with Wood burners, and partially if burning coals. Secondary air is fed through unseen channels, superheated as it rises, and then exits into the stove at a higher level and burns fuel particles that would otherwise have escaped unburnt up the flue. Airwash or Tertiary air is similar but feeds in above the door, sending hot air around the glass, again burning fuel that would otherwise deposit on the glass. The relative positioning of the controls is not set in stone – only practice with the individual stove will determine the ideal settings.

Freestanding stoves may benefit from having a thermometer attached to the stovepipe, which will show the ideal average heat and offer guidance as when best to refuel.

The critical element of any appliance’s clean and efficient combustion is the flue system. This is outside the control of the appliance manufacturer. Having brought air into the stove efficiently, the products of combustion must then be removed efficiently and it is the flow of air (oxygen) through the fire and up the flue which creates the perfect combustion process. It is the role of the installer to assess or design a suitable flue system.

What is the difference between a wood burning and a multi-fuel appliance?

All  Stoves and fires are designed either for multi-fuel use, which means they burn logs, smokeless fuels or peat/turf briquettes, or as dedicated woodburners only.

Dedicated wood burning stoves or fires are designed to burn wood in the most efficient way with combustion air coming from above the firebed along with the addition of a Cleanburn system ensuring the best possible combustion conditions. Woodburners have a fixed grate and no ashpan, since wood burns best on a bed of ashes.

Multi-fuel stoves or fires incorporate a raised grate system which allows combustion air under the fuel (primary air) for effective burning. This system also allows the easy removal of the ash from below using a removable ashpan.

All stoves or fires should only be used to burn the correct recommended fuels, when installed and operated as shown in the manual instruction of your product.

Can I put a flat screen TV above my Stovax fire?

Firstly, there is the basic principle that heat rises. Televisions and other similar equipment will not react well to exposure of excessive heat from below.

Inset cassette fires such as the Studio and Elise ranges, being flush with the wall, will transfer heat directly up the wall above. Every Stovax Group product states a distance above them where there must be no combustible material present such as TVs and other combustible material, and therefore the base of the appliance must be at least this far above the top of the installed fire. This measurement will frequently be of a height, which would not comfortably allow any TV to be practically placed there.

Freestanding stoves have a consistent requirement as per building regulations, which is that there must be no combustible material above the appliance for a distance of the flue diameter X 3. In effect, this will mean a height of either 15” / 375mm or 18” / 450mm.

Creating a recess in the wall above the fire to house a TV is a popular suggestion. However, it may actually cause a greater negative impact on the appliance because it will usually (a) place it even closer to the hot flue system rising from the fire and (b) place it in a confined space more prone to retaining the rising heat.

In conclusion, we would recommend avoiding the placing of delicate electrical equipment in close proximity to highly efficient and thus extremely hot heating products.

Why does the glass on my stove or fire go black in use?

Blackening glass is a result of the fuel not burning cleanly, see how do I get the best efficiency from my fire. There can be many reasons for inefficient combustion, clearly visible by soot and tars deposited in the appliance, including the following reasons. If a stove is operated with the controls not set as intended, then the fuel will be burning at below optimum. If a stove is “slumbered” for too long, i.e. operated with the controls closed perhaps due to it being too hot, then the fuel will not be able to combust cleanly. If the flue is not creating a good up draught then the same result will happen. Even the weather can have a marked effect on a flue’s propensity to flow hot air upwards, and stoves can react differently day by day depending on wind, temperature and air pressure. If the wood is not seasoned, then the moisture which has to be boiled off before there is any energy will cool the firebox and prevent efficient burning.

Modern solid fuel appliances have been tested and approved as being capable of burning the correct fuel to a high standard of cleanliness. If a stove is failing to achieve this, then the fuel, the usage and the air supply through the appliance need to be investigated.

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